Hebridean Adventure
a Harris journal : day 2 : miracle at Luskentyre
our first full day on Harris is a Sunday. And as wet a Sunday as you could ever hope for
Best seen through the kitchen window, maybe
So it’s quite late in the day that we decide to get out, and head for the famous beach at Luskentyre
Along the way, South Harris shows its lunar appeal
and it seems the darkest time is just before the light as we descend towards the sea, and the beach at Luskentyre appears in the distance, glowing through the gloom
The light here is quite extraordinary. The sea glows turquoise, and through it the sand seems illuminated by a light whose source is genuinely mysterious
If the sea is blue because it reflects the colour of the sky, then when is the sea here, today, this luminous green, when the sky is grey, going on black?
And there’s more. We brave the rain to go watch gannets playing in the surf. Really quite unusual to get so close to these creatures
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We get thoroughly drenched walking half a mile from the car to the beach, but the rain stops and the wind dries us out again on the walk back!
Then it’s back to Ardhasaig, wher the evening light suggests we may have a better day coming tomorrow
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a Harris journal : day 1 : arrival
as we left Uig on Skye the rain seemed to sweep in and swallow it up behind us
When we reached Tarbert on Harris, the rain was horizontal
No access to our cottage til later in the day, so off we head to Stornoway, where ancient fishing boats come to linger in reminiscence
of herring girls long-gone
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Then it’s back down to Harris, and there’s now some hope of sunshine in the afternoon air
The boundary between Harris and Lewis seems as much a matter of geology as politics, as we cross it at the bottom of the pass over the North Harris mountains which lie between Ardhasaig and Loch Seaforth.
Ardhasaig will be our base for the next week. We picked it for its apparent potential for stunning views of mountains, loch and ocean. For now, it’s enough to settle in as gloomy turns to gentle island gloaming
Some light, eh!!!
a Hebridean adventure
starts here
Down and out of Fort William, in the Cooper D Convertible
and off to Skye. This time via the Glenelg to Kylerhea Community Ferry. The road to Glenelg gives a new perspective on the hills of Kintail, as we climb up above Loch Duich
and as we look back from Skye
The Ferry boat itself reveals its origin as the wee vessel that used to ply the waters of Loch Leven, twixt N. and S. Ballachulish, before the Ballachulish Bridge was built about 40 years ago now
The Cooper D purrs gently over the hills and (not very) far away, and we see the sun go down over the Minch from Uig at the western end of Skye.
Tomorrow to Harris, and beyond!